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Here Are the Latest Watches to Drop at Geneva Watch Days

Jul 05, 2023

Geneva Watch Days is officially underway for its third year. The industry salon runs through the week with a slew of new releases dropping from some of the most prestigious watchmakers in the industry, including the eight inaugural brands that established the event back in 2020: Breitling, Bulgari, De Bethune, Girard-Perregaux, H. Moser & Cie., MB&F, Ulysse Nardin and Urwerk. This year’s exhibition will be the largest yet, with nearly 40 brands participating. Today, we have ten additional new watches to report, including a whopping six from Bulgari alone.

Across the launches over the past two days, we’ve noticed a number of trends, including the use of new and innovative materials, inspiration from the brand’s heritage and a resurgence of the classic color blue. While each of these approaches may be tried and true in the history of watchmaking, the models debuting at Geneva Watch Days are anything but traditional or ordinary. It’s clear that brands came to impress with avant-garde designs and playful, out of the box ingenuity that puts their technical achievements on full display in the most beautiful way possible.

H. Moser & Cie has expanded one of its most popular collections, the Endeavour, with two new all-black models. The new Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack and Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack showcase the stunning beauty of the company’s proprietary Vantablack, a unique material celebrated for its exceptional light-absorbing properties. In each iteration, a red gold case and bezel perfectly frame the pure black dial, which is the star of the show. Powering the tourbillon is H. Moser & Cie’s self-winding HMC 804 movement, and housed within the Centre Seconds is the self-winding HMC 200. The Endeavour Centre Seconds Vantablack is priced at $27,600, and the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack is priced at $82,500.

Greubel Forsey introduces two new redesigned versions of the Balancier Convexe S². Here, the brand showcases an all-new material and new highly wearable sizing. Both the Balancier Convexe S² and the Double Balancier Convexe are rendered in carbon, giving them a sleek and modern blacked-out look while retaining the open-worked design that highlights the movement. Maintaining the unique geometry of the Balancier Convexe S²’s signature convex case with the carbon material is a major feat. In addition, Greubel Forsey has significantly reduced the size from the current Balancier Convexe S², which measures a whopping 46.5mm. The new Balancier Convexe S² Carbon is a relatively modest 41.5mm, and the Double Balancier Convexe Carbon comes in at 42.5mm. Both models are produced in a very limited quantity of just 22 pieces each. The Limited Edition Balancier Convexe S² Carbon is priced at $290,000, and the Double Balancier Convexe Carbon is priced at $390,000.

Four years ago, MB&F introduced its Horological Machine N°9, nicknamed HM9 “Flow.” This model draws inspiration from automotive and aeronautic designs of the ‘40s and ‘50s. Two years later in 2021, the brand debuted a series of four “Sapphire Editions” of the HM9, each produced in a limited run of just five pieces. As the name suggests, these limited editions were rendered in sapphire crystal to further highlight the impressive HM9 movement. Now, MB&F adds two new limited edition “Sapphire Vision” models to the HM9 family, one in 18-karat yellow gold with a green-CVD movement and the other in 18-karat white gold with a blue-CVD movement. Once more, there will only be five pieces of each addition, and each is priced at $490,000.

Laurent Ferrier’s roots trace back to the famed 24 Hours of Le Mans during which François Servanin and Laurent Ferrier, the two men who would become the brands founders, first connected in 1979. The brand continues its legacy in the way of motorsport models with the new Limited Edition Sport Auto 40. This latest addition draws inspiration form the legendary Porsche 935 Turbo No. 40, giving the watch its name. This is the racing version of the Porsche 911 Turbo and the car driven by Laurent Ferrier, François Servanin and François Trisconi in 1979. The most striking aspect is the bold green, fuchsia and orange color palette that reflects that of the namesake racing car. Inside the Sport Auto 40, you’ll find the LF270.01 caliber, the brand’s second self-winding movement with a calendar. The new Sport Auto 40 is available in a limited run of just 40 pieces and priced at $58,000.

Bulgari’s instantly recognizable Octo collection has built a reputation for its record-breaking achievements in the way of technical performance and design. With the latest additions, the brand homes in on the latter with a new take on the Octo Finissimo Automatic, which set the record in 2017 as the thinnest automatic watch, and the Octo Finissimo Perpetual Calendar, which remains the thinnest perpetual calendar in the world for two years and counting. Bulgari has reimagined both models in high-tech anthracite carbon with contrasting gold accents that give each watch a fresh look and feel. The Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Automatic is priced at $26,800, and the Octo Finissimo CarbonGold Perpetual Calendar is priced at $89,000.

Before Bulgari became synonymous with the Octo, there was the Serpenti, aptly named for its serpent motif, which has long been seen in the brands jewelry and first appeared in its watches back in the 1940s. The next evolution, the Serpenti “Secret” watch, came a couple decades later, appearing as a jewelry item with a “secret” watch concealed in a hidden compartment unveiled by a discrete clasp. Now, Bulgari expands on this collection with two new pieces, one in white gold with pavé diamonds and one in rose gold with black lacquer scales set with diamonds. Both new additions house the ultra-small mechanical caliber BVL 100, first introduced to the collection last year. The white gold variation is priced at $285,000, and the rose gold variation is priced at $324,000.

Like Bulgari’s Serpenti, its Monete collection has had roots in the brand’s jewelry since the 1960s. The aesthetic is marked by incorporating antique coins into the design. In addition, the “curb chain” or “catene” aesthetic has also been a part of Bulgari’s heritage since the 1940s. Together, this striking chain motif and ancient coins create an instant conversation piece with the Monete Catene High Jewelry Secret Watch. Bulgari furthers the concept with a dual time variation, inspired by a rectangular watch from the 1970s featuring two dials with hands in two distinct colors to display two time zones. Powering both Monete Catene iterations is the same caliber BVL 100 “Piccolissimo” movement, meaning “very, very small” in Italian. The Monete Catene High Jewelry Secret Watch is priced at $201,000, and Monete Catene Dual Time High Jewelry Secret Watch is priced at $659,000.

Two years after Girard Perregaux introduced a totally revamped Laureato collection, it debuted the Laureato Absolute, which showcases the brand’s exceptional work in the way of cutting-edge materials. Now, Girard Perregaux builds on this work with the Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech, powered by the caliber GP03300-1058 movement. 8Tech is a revolutionary technique used to craft the model’s octagonal carbon case featuring a unique structural pattern. The process comprises thin layers of unidirectional carbon fibers and lightweight titanium powder meticulously formed into octagons. Next, heat and pressure are used to fuse these shapes, the watch is then finished by hand, resulting in a finish reminiscent of Damascus steel. The Laureato Absolute Chronograph 8Tech is priced at $27,300 and will be available this October at authorized Girard-Perregaux retailers worldwide.

Urwerk has built a reputation for its bold, creative, and rebellious creations. However, in 2019 we saw the brand introduce its more streamlined UR-100. In the years to follow, Urwerk would iterate on the UR-100 dozens of times with new colors, materials, and designs that added a bit more to the brand’s signature flair. The latest variation, the UR-100V Stardust, continues the narrative by highlighting gem setting reminiscent of the stars in the sky. This stunning model is set with 400 diamonds totaling nearly two carats. The choice of snow-setting perfectly recreates the organic layout of a starry night, lacking uniformity and instead embracing ordered chaos. Like all models in the 100 collection, the UR-100V Stardust is powered by Urwerk’s wandering hour movement, and it’s priced at $99,423.

Silicon parts first began to appear in watch movements back in 2001, and Ulysse Nardin was among the first to do so with the launch of the now-iconic Freak. Two decades later, the brand introduced its Blast collection, known for its open worked design. Now, the Ulysse Nardin takes silicon beyond its functional application and demonstrates that it can be equally impactful in terms of aesthetic thanks to the Blast collection’s skeletonized construction. With the new Blast Free Wheel Marquetry, Ulysse Nardin celebrates the caliber that started it all, the UN-176, with 103 radiant blue marquetry slivers that turn this movement into a work of art. While the brand has presented variations of the Freak with a multi-colored silicon marquetry disc, this is the first time we’ve seen the technique in the Blast collection. The Ulysse Nardin Blast Free Wheel Marquetry is priced at $137,200.